Cruising New Zealand

It's been a long way. More than 2700 km are behind us in our little van, which we actually didn't name yet (seems to be a rage amongst tourists :D). The aim was to drive down as fast as possible, to outrun the winter. But there were simply too many lovely places! It took us about two weeks to get to Christchurch; an average of 150 km a day, about 2-3 hours drive.

Here's what we loved:

On the first night, we soaked in the (free) hotsprings of Kerosene Creek (old Waiotapu Rd) and the next morning under the bridge on the southern side of the Waiotapu Loop Road. A hot waterfall and a hot stream meeting a cold river. Not the easiest to find, definitely the most authentic still. We enjoyed them underneath the starry skies, before hopping into our cosy van. What more do you need?

We then stopped to do the Tongariro Crossing. Somehow we're not lucky with the mountain here. In 2008, we didn't even get to see the area, now we did see Mt. Ngauruhoe (Mt. Doom :)) We even had good weather when we started and hiked across the Crossing unto the point where it was blocked due to volcanic acticity (the crossing reopened 4 days later :( ). Unfortunately, it fogged up so much that we couldnt see a thing (Blue lakes? what blue lakes?) so we decided to turn back and hike up to Mt. Doom. When we started the top was clear and sunny, but as we got there it hailed, rained and stormed...Freezing cold. The crater drops down really steep, and we had to be careful not to step to far!!! (You don't want to end up like Gollum :D) The mountain is pretty much just black sand and stones, so after surfing/skiing our way down the steep gravel slopes of this vulcano (in about 25min :)) we ended up at the bottom of the hill again. We took a break just to discover the blimmin mountain was just to clear up again for an hour! So we got further than last time ..., but it still wasn't 100% satisfying. Maybe we'll give it another try on the way up:).

On the southwest coast (Himatangi/foxton beach) we tried the 4WD skills of our van and had great fun:)... We only got stuck once but had a good time!! We must admit, it was a bit scary at first, but everything worked! We tried to follow another 4WD truck along the beach road, but the car is simply to heavy. With all of the wood inside, and our full equipment packed inside, it does drive on sand, but we sank in much deeper than the car before us. Probably not a problem, but for a first try out we didn't want to risk it on a 25 km track. Ironically enough, we got stuck on the 200 meters back to the road :) The shovel came in handy!

To wash off all the dirt, we soaked a day in an aquatic centre jn Palmerston North. It was cheaper than campground and more fun;)). We could use the exercise too. Sitting on your bum all day gives you ants in your pants. We rounded off the North Island by making our way to the SE tip, called Cape Palliser. It's a really nice spot, and feels a bit remote; just what we had been looking for. With lots of (baby) seals, bulldozers (each fishing boat has it's own!) and pauas, as well as good surf and many nice free campsites, it felt like how it used to be in NZL (when we were here in 2008). Friendly people, simple rules. So after studying the seals for ages, climbing up the lighthouse, and diving for pauas (actually got a few ;)) we were invited by Rosemary and Keith for dinner - very nice & thanks again! We loved this part of the country, as it felt so pure, rigid, original, and rich in its landscape, wildlife and culture. And it is just 90 min drive from Wellington!! The view of the Kaikoura Range in the distance after the nights snowfall was mesmerising too!!
We hiked up to the Pinnacles :) another LOTR filming site. Paths of the Dead, impressive high towers of limestone sand. A quiet, desolated area, where we felt so close to nature (more alive than dead though ;-) ).

In Wellington we spent a few hours in Te Papa (the free national museum), watched the waves at the beach and took a quick stroll before taking the late evening ferry over to Picton. It's an utterly expensive ferry for its 3 hour trip, and has not much to offer except for the views on the Marlborough Sounds (which of course are a bit restricted in the dark). Worst, we (the car) had to stand outside on the deck. Imagine what saltwater does to your car; all inclusive for 200 bucks. Upon our arrival late at night we decided to head down the east coast taking a very windy gravel road. It took ages and swept up and down continously; we finally arrived at a quite little bay that we liked :) and inhaled the southern air. In the morning, we didn't see the promised Hector dolphins, but a seal couldn't withhold its curiosity :) Another sunny day ahead of us; winter didn't show itself yet!

Kaikoura is magnificent. Snowclad mountains in the back, ocean in the front. A scene from a postcard. We only got to spent a short while here; we were unlucky with the wind. A storm had turned the ocean murky. What normally ar clear waters with an abundance od shellfish, turned into a grey mass. Obviously, Jan's paua diving didn't deliver anything, as he could see max. 10 cm ahead. We would have wanted to stay longer, but felt more like riding with the wind. So we decided to get going and heat up in Hanmer Springs. Not as authentic as Kerosene Creek (more like a few swimming pools), but nice and warm anyway. Fate had it that we ended up talking to Nicola's mother, who invited us to stay with her daughter in Christchurch - an odd way of meeting, but it turned out really really nice! As happens more often, good things happen and change on the way, and if you're willing to be open for it, magical things could happen. We are so grateful for the many people that have been so kind to us all long the way!!!

From Hanmer Springs, we still needed a place to stay for the night. Since NZ rules about freedom camping have become quite strict, we often use DOC sites (department of conservation). Of course, nibbling on every cent we have, we stay mostly on the free sites (quite basic "fields" with only a portable toilet). Most of these are in remoter areas, accessible often only by 4WD. Which is fun of course, but not always when you have to drive 50 km in the pitch black night on a gravel road with big dents after feeling nice warm and cozy from the hot pools. But, it did bring us to Lake Tennyson (Nelson Lakes), and we would 't have want to miss it for the world. Almost alone, a cup of coffee, a drawing book and a sunny mountain landscape. The Lake turned into a mirror, reflecting the snowy tips; it was worth staying the day. The car started (always a good thing when you're in the middle of nowhere) and once the mouse that sneaked into the van was sent outside again :) the next destination was Christchurch. Nicola actually had a day off :) and we did a bit of sightseeing together. The 2011 earthquake that killed 185 people still left many scars in the city; particularly in the centre. Churches are crooked, windows cracked, houses torn in half. It's quite a sight, even though most dramatic scenes ( half opened houses with still all stuff inside) are removed, it's a devastating sight. For us, coming from a relatively earthquake free zone, somehow still fascinating. In a strange way, we would like to experience one, knowing that we should be careful what we wish for!! The whole town is now a paradise for architects and construction builders, one huge construction site. Nicole took us to Taylor's mistake, one of the most famous beaches in Christchurch. On the way there, some million dollar villas can be seen hanging from the cliffs; the cliffside secured with containers stacked on top of each other to prevent rocks from destroying the road again. Some of the roads are quite funky, as if you are riding a rollercoaster: up and down, up and down. The beach itself is probably not the most beautiful we have seen, but..... It delivered us 99 green lip mussels! Enough to feed a whole bunch of us :) We also managed to meet up with Kurt & Emma again, whom we were diving with in Koh Tao! It was so nice to see them again in another part of the world! The more and more we think of it, the more it becomes proven over and over again that its the people that make the place worthwhile. Sometimes a beautiful landscape can make up for a whole lot of things, but the encounters we make with people make the images most vivid.

So there we were...from the northern capital(s) to the southern one. 6 more weeks to go, a lot on the program still, tons of experiences, encounters and impressions richer....and... Now in the possession of a guitar. Jippie!!